A Crisp Solitude

Mweelrea (Highest point in Connacht 814m)






A beautiful mountain to climb with stunning views from the top. The mountain is set in one of the most scenic areas in Connemara surrounded by wide open expanses and vast lakes as well as exquisite mountains and valleys. Again I set off for the mountain at half 3 in the morning having prepared well the day before, mapping out a route, making food and getting directions to the mountain. Instead of heading out the the N59 towards Clifden I turned right at Maam cross (coming from Galway) and headed towards Leenaun, I believe this to be the more rugged side of Connemara as you drive directly underneath the monumental mountains on the way towards Mweelrea you cant help but feel small. Upon entering the village of Leenaun I veered right and continued on this road, it was still pitch black at this stage of the day no sign of the sun beginning to rise as of yet. Upon entering a wooded area I then took a left turn and continued on out this road to Mweelrea. An amazing road to drive on, you drive directly next to Killary fjord (only fjord in Ireland) To your left as you drive is a sheer drop into the waters below. The moon danced upon the surface of the fjord as I neared the mountain. Passing on up past Delphi resort I continued on until I reached the two lakes at the foot of the mountain Glenullin Lough and Doo Lough. Parking the car between these two lakes I prepared to set off.

I set off at half 6 in the morning and the sun could be seen at this point peeking over the horizon and spreading across the landscape a sheet of light. I crossed between both lakes on a large strip of land, making my way along the pebble beaches. The weather was beginning to break at this stage and a mighty wind rose up the rain which had been falling gently all morning began to drive down heavier. Although these may seem like adverse conditions for walking they in fact made it a more enjoyable experience. The gusts of wind were sweeping along the surface of the Doo Lough and sending soft rivulets of water drifting along my face as I strolled. I walked along this path until I reached a small sheep pen from here I veered right out along a marshy plain towards a small stream I hoped over the stream and continued on up into the valley entrenched within the mountains. The surface remained very wet and marshy as I continued on upwards. Following five minutes of making my way up through the valley I began to make my way right and found a place to cross over the river which gushed downwards from the mountainside.
                    Having crossed the river I continued on towards the back of the valley, the ground all the way to the back of the valley is only at a slight incline and so is a very easy part of the walk. Once I reached the back of the valley I  stopped for some food beneath the mountains which rose up on each side of me, it is a beautiful place the view of the two huge lakes in the distance in front of the open plains circled by mountains on either side watching the rain fall and the streams make there way down the mountain through gullies and down waterfalls. Once I had finished eating I made for the beginning of the diagonal climb from left to right up the back wall of the valley. The walk became a lot steeper which I preferred I stayed next to a flowing stream at the beginning of the ascent taking drinks as I went.

Trail leading diagonally up the back of the valley

Once I reached a certain point on the mountain I crossed the stream and began making my way diagonally up towards the top of Mweelrea. The weather was starting to clear up as I walked and I was able to stand out on the ledge and take in the view of the surrounding landscape which was serenely beautiful. Numerous paths dotted the mountainside as I climbed and I found myself interchanging between different paths almost as a mental exercise. At this stage the fog began to close in on me and clouded my surroundings, an eerie sensation, I was forced to sit and wait for some time until the fog began to recede. As I walk I saw the drop form the edge of the diagonal slope grow metre by metre each second as I ascended towards a narrow path which all the paths converged into. The rain had softened at this stage and only brief sheets of water remained coming down. I carried on along the narrow path which slinked its way around the edge of the mountainside. When I emerged I could not believe what awaited me, a huge wide open plain which spread out for miles in each direction and made its way along the skyline through the surrounding landscape.

The plains on top stretched out for miles in each direction

I continued directly outwards along these plains heading in a south westerly direction towards the peak of Mweelrea. I found a curve in the plain which made directly for the peak of the mountain and kept along this curve the whole way around, at which point the ground began to rise upwards once again. The ground up here was, as at the lowest point of the mountain, very marshy and wet the lowlands of the highlands if you like. And I could feel the water sloshing around on my feet. There was a beautiful smell and moisture in the air at this height a very fresh feeling which had me feeling refreshed, a stark comparison to the everyday air we breath. I began, having reached the slope atop the slope, to climb upwards a much shorter climb then the first steep section and much easier to ascend. I made directly for the peak of the mountain which I could see in the distance. The wind was whipping along the side of the mountain at a pretty high speed due to the curved shape of this part of the mountain, every so often a sharp gust would swoop through me.
                    I reached the top of the mountain at around 8:40 in the morning and, having placed a rock atop the peak, sat for some food. The views were stunning I could see down into the surrounding valleys and could see the rivers winding through deep green forests and into lakes or out into Killary fjord. The fog came and went in intervals as I sat taking in the landscape. There was a crisp stillness to the world on top of the mountain, not the kind of quiet and stillness felt every so often in ordinary life but a complete stillness and solitude that wrapped you within it and made you feel entirely at peace. a mesmerising quiet which left me siting atop the mountain for an age basking in the tranquility of it all. I then packed up and began to make my way back down the mountain along the route I had come up careful to stay along my previous tracks, having found the diagonal slope I made a rapid descent to the car and was making my way through the sleek winter roads by 12 o clock. An amazing day an amazing experience.

“No matter how sophisticated you may be, a large granite mountain cannot be denied – it speaks in silence to the very core of your being”
(Ansel Adams)